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The leather jacket has some very interesting rumours about its origin. The most scandalous one being that it was first designed for the German military during the world war. Before the version we know now came into being, they wore long leather coats made out of tougher leathers like horse hide that could withstand extreme weather conditions. It is believed that the shorter silhouette came into being out of practicality reasons for the aviation industry during war time. Once the war ended, the bikers picked it up. The moto jacket silhouette that is popular today came out of a collaboration in 1928, between Irving Scott and Beck Industry, a distributor for Harley Davidson bikes. He introduced the first jacket with a zipper and named his version ‘The Perfecto’. Many many knockoffs of this design exist today. The fashion designers have been re-designing it for decades but today’s motto jacket still resembles the original after a century. That is an ode to great design. ( Honorable mention to Rick Owens for an original design that doesn’t resemble anything I have seen from the past. )
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Some iterations through the decades
This is a tiny subset of the versions that existed over the century. Each designer made a few over the years and many iterations of each version was designed based on utility. Car coats, bomber jackets, riding jackets, perfecto with half belt, painted jackets, padded jackets, puffer jackets, … Each industry and country had a few variations. The years of war had its influence. The jazz age in America had its influence. The moto and punk subcultures had their influence … Since the 60s, its evolution has been c/o fashion designers. Monsieur Laurent made a few. Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, … Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Balenciaga, Balmain, Acne, Rick Owens, …. everyone makes a version of it. The dedicated companies that design for bikers, continue to evolve the design. I am researching post 60s evolution and perhaps in a few years, I can make a post on it. If you want a detailed pre-50s history, do check out : The Vintage Jacket. (All the pictures were stolen from this book.) You can stare at jackets for days.
Part 3 – My Perfect Leather Jacket ( coming up )
Thinking about it, I always had at least one leather jacket or coat. It all started at school when we did a play. A friend of mine brought this worn camel brown 70ies cut one she found in the attic of her parents to wear for the character she was playing. It belonged to her dad. I loved it and so she gave it to me after the play. And boy did I wear this one out! Interestingly, except for once purchasing a sheep skin vintage coat, I usually end up with hand-me-downs. The last one I received was actually new! It was meant for my firend’s brother but turned out to be a bit too small for him and so it came to me. Although a little on the larger side it does give enough space for a thick jumper (I dread the cold weather, too). I never would have dreamt of buying myself a black leather jacket, I hardly wear black. But as this was an opportunity, why not try and experiment. This was five years back and I still have it and love to wear it. The leather has softened somewhat more and the black has become more anthracite. Looking at your images above, it fits into the forties style. I love to pair it with my Max Mara pleated pants I bought like more than ten years ago (!) and a feminine blouse and oxfords. Now all I need is a plane 😉
Lavanya, thank you for sharing. I love collecting leather jacket stories. Perhaps if I get enough, I can make a post out of it.
Do you have a photograph of your 70s jacket ? That is the sort of heirloom jacket I have always wished I stumbled into. Never had such luck in the thrift stores. Or perhaps I gave up too soon. You are lucky to have your decade old clothes fit you. I have been buying nice clothes but wonder if I will outgrow them before they wear out on me. Nothing from a decade ago fit me really. My mom kept all of my indian clothes after I left the country and I squeeze into them when ever I visit. No point buying new ones for the 10 days I visit per year.
Please please share an image of your outfit next time you wear it ? You have my email. I am sure you wear yours well.
A pleasure, and big thank you for bringing back these memories. Because, I never really gave it much thought. Hm, maybe I do have a photograph somewhere. Do not have many photographs of myself. Was always the one running around with the cam :D! I think my clothes tend to fit for a long time, because I always had the tendency to buy loose fitting and comfy clothes. Diane Keaton, definitely an style inspiration number one of mine.
Sorry, sent my response off accidentally while checking on my neighbours balcony flowers downstairs (am watering them while she’s gone). Katherine Hepburn is probably the other style icon of mine.
The nice thing about Indian clothes is, they never really go out of style, they’re timelessly beautiful and the seam can be always reopened and restitched to fit again. 🙂
As for taking a photograph of myself in my ‘I’m-just-about-to-board-a-propeller plane’ style… am a bit shy in front of the cam, dislike selfies and am pretty much the only one taking pictures, ever. 😀 So not making any promises 😉
But a leather jacket stories post sounds really like an interesting idea! Hope you’ll get enough stories together.